Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Locations

Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Locations

Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Locations

Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Locations -Interior painting requires as careful preparation of surfaces along with exterior painting. The advent of odorless paints now assists you to paint any moment of year. Formerly, most interior painting in your home ended inside the fall or spring, when it was possible to go away the windows open to ventilate the space. But open windows brought dust into the space to mar the finished painted surface.

A good interior paint job is often 50% preparation and 50% painting. Do not rush in preparing the surfaces inside your eagerness to go to the brush or roller. If you do not prepare the surfaces properly, you'll be back using the paint brush or roller in a few monthsAnnie Sloan Chalk Paint Locations. In this there is the necessary information for the using different types of paints on various interior wall, ceiling and floor materials.


New dry plaster in good shape, which would be to be carried out with a paint apart from water paint, must be given a coat of primer-sealer and in a position to dry thoroughly before being inspected for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and color differences inside the case of tinted primers indicate choice . whole surface has become completely sealed. If not, an additional coat of primer-sealer must be applied. If only several "suction spots" are apparent, an additional coat through these areas could possibly be sufficient.

A flat, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish could possibly be put on the primed surface. For a flat finish, two coats of flat wall paint should continue with the priming coat. For a semi-gloss finish, one coat of flat wall paint the other coat of semi-gloss paint must be put on the primed surface. For a high-gloss finish, one coat of semi-gloss paint the other coat of high-gloss enamel must be used within the priming coat.

Before applying water paints in the calcimine type to new plastered walls they must be sized, using the glue-water size or, in the event the plaster is dry, a thin varnish or primer-sealer.

Cold water paints in the casein type could possibly be applied either directly to a plastered surface, or even the surface could possibly be first given a coat of primer-sealer to equalize uneven suction effects. The same is true of resin-emulsion paints, using the recommendations in the manufacturer in the product being given preference in the case of doubt. Since resin-emulsion paints usually contain some oil inside the binder, they must ordinarily be used simply to plaster that has dried thoroughly.

Texture wall paints may also be used on plaster surfaces. The advantages of this sort of paint are that particular coat economically creates a textured decoration and relieves the monotony of smooth flat paint. It also covers cracks or patches inside the plaster more completely than ordinary wall paint. The disadvantages of texture wall paint are they Collect dust and so are hard to restore to some smooth finish. These materials can be found as water-or oil-based paints, are thicker than ordinary wall paints, and could possibly be put on wallboard as well as plaster to generate textured effects including random, Spanish, mission, and multicolored.

Composition Wallboard

Composition wallboard usually presents no particular painting difficulties in the event the ordinary precautions are observed, including guaranteeing how the surface is dry and free of grease and oil. The painting procedure for wallboard is the same as for plaster; it needs a priming and sealing coat then whatever finishes coats are desired, or could possibly be given one-coat flat or resin-emulsion type paint.


Water-thinned paint could possibly be put on wallpaper that is certainly well- bonded on the wall and contain dyes which can bleed in to the paint. One thickness of wallpaper is preferable for paint application. Paints apart from those in the water-thinned type are often put on wallpaper using the directions given for painting plaster. However, wallpaper coated by using these a paint is hard to remove without injury on the plaster.

Wood Walls and Trim

New interior walls and wood trim must be smoothed with sand-paper and dusted before painting or varnishing. To preserve the grain in the wood, the outer lining could possibly be rubbed with linseed oil, varnished or shellacked, and waxed. If an opaque finish is desired, semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint or even the primer-sealer previously described for walls could possibly be used as being a priming coat on wood. One or two coats of semi-gloss paint should then be used within the thoroughly dry prime coat, or if a full-gloss finish is desired, the past coat must be a high-gloss enamel.

Masonry Walls and Ceilings

Interior masonry walls and ceilings above grade may, generally, be painted in a very similar manner as plaster surfaces. Here again, it is vital to allow for adequate time for the masonry to dry before applying paint and, furthermore, attention must be given on the preparation in the surface. When decorating a wall containing Portland cement (concrete, as an example), it is essential to take precautions from the attack of alkali. For this purpose, alkali-resistant primers including rubber-base paints could possibly be used when oil paints are to follow.

Cement-water paints might be best fitted to application to basement walls that are damp as being a result of leakage or condensation. To apply these paints, exactly the same procedure must be followed as they are described here for painting exterior masonry walls.

Concrete Floors

Two general kinds of paints for concrete floors are varnish and rubber-base paint. Each has its limitations along with the finish is not patched devoid of the patched area showing through. Floor and deck enamel in the varnish type gives good service on concrete floors above grade where there isn't moisture present.

Rubber-base paints, which dry to some hard semi-gloss finish, could possibly be used on concrete floors below grade, offering the floor is not continually damp from seepage and condensation.

Paint mustn't be put on a concrete basement floor until the concrete has aged for around 12 months. The floor must be dry when painted, the optimum time for application being throughout the winter or planting season (assuming there exists some heating apparatus inside the basement), once the humidity inside the basement is low. In general, three coats of paint are expected on an unpainted floor, along with the first coat must be thin to secure good penetration. After the paint is dry, it must be protected having a coat of floor wax.

Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Locations

In repainting concrete floors, the place that the existing paint has become waxed and is in good shape aside from some worn areas, the outer lining must be scrubbed with cloths saturated with turpentine or petroleum spirits and rubbed with steel wool while wet, to remove all wax before repainting. If this is not done, the paint is not going to adhere and dry satisfactorily, in the event the old paint is badly worn, it must be removed by treating having a solution of 2 lbs. of caustic soda (household lye) to a single gallon of hot water. This could possibly be mopped for the surface and in a position to remain for a half-hour then a floor can be washed with hot water and scraped having a wide steel scraper. Another method of application would be to spread a thin layer of sawdust, which has become soaked in caustic solution within the floor and allow it to square overnight. The following morning, a floor can be washed with hot water along with the paint scraped off Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Locations. The surface should then be rinsed thoroughly with clean water.

If rubber-base paint has become used, the caustic soda treatment may not be effective and yes it could possibly be required to use an organic solvent kind of paint remover.

Caution: - When using caustic soda or lye, avoid splashing eyes, skin, and clothing.

Interior Metal

Interior metal, including heating grilles, radiators, and exposed water pipes, must be painted to avoid rust and also to make them as inconspicuous as is possible. New metal must be cleaned of grease and dirt by washing with mineral spirits, and then for any rust must be removed by sanding, then a metallic primer must be applied. The finish coat could possibly be the flat wall paint or a semi-gloss enamel.

If about to catch sure in the primer to use on metal, the paint dealer or manufacturer will provide you with this info, dependent for the kind of metal being painted Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Locations.
Usually on exposed air ducts of galvanized metal a primer coat of zinc dust-zinc oxide paint is used, ahead of the finish coat is applied.
The paints could possibly be applied by brush or spray; small spray attachment for vacuum cleaners is very convenient, specifically for painting radiators.

Brass lamps and andirons could possibly be polished and kept bright by coating with metal lacquers. The lacquers, held in cans pressurized, could possibly be sprayed directly from the container. Old-fashioned or unattractive lamps could possibly be painted with ceiling or wall paint to harmonize using the surrounding surfaces.

Special Surfaces


Whitewashes and lime paints has to be thin when applied. In fact, the best results is going to be obtained in the event the application is so thin how the surface which it really is applied may easily be seen through the film while it really is wet. The coating will dry opaque, but two thin Coats will offer better results than one thick coat.

A large whitewash brush is perfect for applying the wash Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Locations. One should not make an effort to brush out the coating, as in applying oil paint, but merely spread the whitewash on as evenly and quickly as is possible.

The principal ingredient in whitewash is lime paste. A satisfactory paste can be made with hydrated lime, but better answers are obtained by making use of quicklime paste that has become slaked with enough water making it moderately stiff. The lime paste must be kept in a loosely covered container for around a few days. Eight gallons of stiff lime paste can be made by slaking 25 lbs. of quicklime in 10 gallons of water, or by soaking 50 lbs. of hydrated lime in 6 gallons of water. After soaking, the paste must be strained by having a fine screen to remove lumps or foreign matter.

Whitewash can be made from various combinations of lime paste along with other ingredients. The following two formulas are satisfactory.

The casein, which can serve as the glue binder, must be soaked into two gallons of hot water until thoroughly softened, which must be approximately a couple of hours. After dissolving the trisodium phosphate in 1 gallon of water it must be added on the casein, stirring the mixture until the casein dissolves. This solution must be mixed using the lime paste and 3 gallons of water.

The salt and alum must be dis-solved in 4 gallons of hot water, then the molasses could possibly be added on the mixture. The resulting clear solution is then added on the lime paste, stirred vigorously, and thinned with water on the desired consistency. This whitewash features a yellow tinge when first applied, though the color disappears in a few days leaving a white film.

Another satisfactory whitewash can be made by diluting a moderately heavy cold lime paste (about 33 lbs. of hydrated lime and 8 gallons of water) with 5 gallons of skim-milk.

The area included in a gallon of whitewash will depend on the type in the surface, but ordinarily a gallon will cover about 225 sq. ft. on wood, about 180 sq. ft. on brick, leading to 270 sq. ft. on plaster. The formulas mentioned can make from 10 to 14 gallons of whitewash. If a smaller quantity is desired, the quantity of each ingredient must be reduced proportionately.


Whether you want the effect of stippling (tiny paint dots) as being a decorative effect, or if you have a wall that has an uneven surface and you are feeling you are able to hide the defect by stippling it, you could do this result very simply.

For stippling you need a special brush; buy one that is certainly flat, and has short, stiff bristles.

The 1st step would be to cover the outer lining having a coat of paint, with your regular paint brush, or spray, or roller. Then, while the outer lining remains to be wet, take the dry stipple brush and energetically with short strokes drive the ends or even the bristles in to the wet paint. Be sure not to brush across. The result is going to be clusters of dots. Every couple of minutes wipe the brush having a cloth, to hold the bristle ends clean and dry.


You may want designs for the walls, or perhaps even on floors and ceilings, in a few in the rooms or hallway. You may buy or you could make your own stencils, which must be on heavy paper, stencil board, plastic, or metal. Avoid stencils made from lightweight paper which will get soaked when touched by wet paint. Your paint dealer will suggest the best paint for you to use, because it depends a great deal for the surface over which you would like to squeeze stenciled designs. Generally a heavy paint is used, then it is not going to spread under the stencil while you are using it.

The stencil has to be held very firmly against the outer lining with one hand, along with the stencil brush worked over it quickly using the other hand Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Locations. Or, in case you have an assistant, it really is best for starters person to hold the stencil steady, as the other does the painting. In treatment of stencil, be sure to understand it without smudging.

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