Antique Gold Paint For Walls

Antique Gold Paint For Walls

Antique Gold Paint For Walls

Antique Gold Paint For Walls -Interior painting requires as careful preparation of surfaces as also does exterior painting. The advent of odorless paints now enables us to paint any moment of year. Formerly, most interior painting in your home was done in the fall or spring, if it was possible to depart the windows offered to ventilate the room. But open windows brought dust into the room to mar the finished painted surface.

A good interior paint job is usually 50% preparation and 50% painting. Do not rush in preparing the surfaces inside your eagerness to find the brush or roller. If you do not prepare the surfaces properly, you will end up back with the paint brush or roller using some monthsAntique Gold Paint For Walls. In this there is a right information for the use of various kinds of paints on various interior wall, ceiling and floor materials.

Plaster

New dry plaster in excellent, which is usually to be carried out with a paint besides water paint, should be given a coat of primer-sealer and in a position to dry thoroughly before being inspected for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and color differences in the case of tinted primers indicate whether or not the whole surface continues to be completely sealed. If not, a second coat of primer-sealer should be applied. If only a couple of "suction spots" are apparent, a second coat during these areas may be sufficient.

A flat, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish may be used on the primed surface. For a flat finish, two coats of flat wall paint should stick to the priming coat. For a semi-gloss finish, one coat of flat wall paint then one coat of semi-gloss paint should be used on the primed surface. For a high-gloss finish, one coat of semi-gloss paint then one coat of high-gloss enamel should be used over the priming coat.

Before applying water paints from the calcimine type to new plastered walls they should be sized, using either a glue-water size or, when the plaster is dry, a thin varnish or primer-sealer.

Cold water paints from the casein type may be applied either straight away to a plastered surface, or the surface may be first given a coat of primer-sealer to equalize uneven suction effects. The same is true of resin-emulsion paints, with the recommendations from the manufacturer from the product being given preference in the case of doubt. Since resin-emulsion paints usually contain some oil in the binder, they need to ordinarily be applied only to plaster containing dried thoroughly.

Texture wall paints could also be used on plaster surfaces. The advantages of this sort of paint are that one coat economically generates a textured decoration and relieves the monotony of smooth flat paint. It also covers cracks or patches in the plaster more completely than ordinary wall paint. The disadvantages of texture wall paint are that they can Collect dust and so are tough to restore with a smooth finish. These materials are available as water-or oil-based paints, are thicker than ordinary wall paints, and may be used on wallboard as well as plaster to make textured effects for example random, Spanish, mission, and multicolored.

Composition Wallboard

Composition wallboard usually presents no particular painting difficulties when the ordinary precautions are observed, for example making sure the surface is dry and totally free of grease and oil. The painting procedure for wallboard is the same as for plaster; it will take a priming and sealing coat then whatever finishes coats are desired, or may be given one-coat flat or resin-emulsion type paint.

Wallpaper

Water-thinned paint may be used on wallpaper that is certainly well- bonded on the wall and doesn't contain dyes which might bleed to the paint. One thickness of wallpaper is preferable for paint application. Paints besides those from the water-thinned type can also be used on wallpaper by following the directions given for painting plaster. However, wallpaper coated by using these a paint is tough to remove without injury on the plaster.

Wood Walls and Trim

New interior walls and wood trim should be smoothed with sand-paper and dusted before painting or varnishing. To preserve the grain from the wood, the top may be rubbed with linseed oil, varnished or shellacked, and waxed. If an opaque finish is desired, semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint or the primer-sealer previously described for walls may be used like a priming coat on wood. One or two coats of semi-gloss paint should then be applied over the thoroughly dry prime coat, or if a full-gloss finish is desired, the last coat should be a high-gloss enamel.

Masonry Walls and Ceilings

Interior masonry walls and ceilings above grade may, generally, be painted in quite similar manner as plaster surfaces. Here again, it's important to allow adequate time to the masonry to dry before applying paint and, additionally, attention should be given on the preparation from the surface. When decorating a wall containing Portland cement (concrete, for instance), it is important to take precautions up against the attack of alkali. For this purpose, alkali-resistant primers for example rubber-base paints may be used when oil paints will follow.

Cement-water paints are best designed for application to basement walls which can be damp like a result of leakage or condensation. To apply these paints, the same procedure should be followed as is described in charge of painting exterior masonry walls.

Concrete Floors

Two general forms of paints for concrete floors are varnish and rubber-base paint. Each has its limitations and also the finish cannot be patched devoid of the patched area showing through. Floor and deck enamel from the varnish type gives good service on concrete floors above grade and then there isn't any moisture present.

Rubber-base paints, which dry with a hard semi-gloss finish, may be used on concrete floors below grade, supplying the floor just isn't continually damp from seepage and condensation.

Paint mustn't be used on a concrete basement floor before concrete has aged for around a year. The floor should be dry when painted, a good time for application being in the winter or early spring (assuming there is certainly some heating apparatus in the basement), in the event the humidity in the basement is low. In general, three coats of paint are required on an unpainted floor, and also the first coat should be thin to secure good penetration. After the paint is dry, it should be protected which has a coat of floor wax.

Antique Gold Paint For Walls

In repainting concrete floors, in which the existing paint continues to be waxed which is in excellent except for some worn areas, the top should be scrubbed with cloths saturated with turpentine or petroleum spirits and rubbed with steel wool while wet, to get rid of all wax before repainting. If this just isn't done, the paint won't adhere and dry satisfactorily, when the old paint is badly worn, it should be removed by treating which has a solution of 2 lbs. of caustic soda (household lye) to at least one gallon of trouble. This may be mopped for the surface and in a position to remain for half an hour after which the floor might be washed with trouble and scraped which has a wide steel scraper. Another method of application is usually to spread a thin layer of sawdust, which continues to be soaked in caustic solution over the floor and allow it to face overnight. The following morning, the floor might be washed with trouble and also the paint scraped off Antique Gold Paint For Walls. The surface should then be rinsed thoroughly with clean water.

If rubber-base paint continues to be used, the caustic soda treatment may not be effective and it may be important to readily organic solvent form of paint remover.

Caution: - When using caustic soda or lye, avoid splashing eyes, skin, and clothing.

Interior Metal

Interior metal, for example heating grilles, radiators, and exposed water pipes, should be painted to avoid rust and to make sure they are as inconspicuous as is possible. New metal should be cleaned of grease and dirt by washing with mineral spirits, as well as any rust should be removed by sanding, after which metallic primer should be applied. The finish coat may be either a flat wall paint or possibly a semi-gloss enamel.

If you are not sure from the primer to work with on metal, the paint dealer or manufacturer gives you this info, dependent for the form of metal to be painted Antique Gold Paint For Walls.
Usually on exposed air ducts of galvanized metal a primer coat of zinc dust-zinc oxide paint is used, prior to finish coat is applied.
The paints may be applied by brush or spray; the small spray attachment for vacuums is quite convenient, particularly for painting radiators.

Brass lights and andirons may be polished and kept bright by coating with metal lacquers. The lacquers, kept in cans under pressure, may be sprayed straight from the container. Old-fashioned or unattractive lights may be painted with ceiling or wall paint to harmonize with the surrounding surfaces.

Special Surfaces

WHITEWASH

Whitewashes and lime paints should be thin when applied. In fact, greatest results will likely be obtained when the application is indeed thin the surface that it really is applied may simply be seen with the film while it really is wet. The coating will dry opaque, but two thin Coats will offer better results than one thick coat.

A large whitewash brush is best for applying the wash Antique Gold Paint For Walls. One should not attempt to brush the coating, such as applying oil paint, but simply spread the whitewash on as evenly and quickly as is possible.

The principal ingredient in whitewash is lime paste. A satisfactory paste might be made with hydrated lime, but better email address particulars are obtained through the use of quicklime paste that continues to be slaked with plenty water to really make it moderately stiff. The lime paste should be saved in a loosely covered container for around a couple of days. Eight gallons of stiff lime paste might be made by slaking 25 lbs. of quicklime in 10 gallons of water, or by soaking 50 lbs. of hydrated lime in 6 gallons of water. After soaking, the paste should be strained through a fine screen to get rid of lumps or foreign matter.

Whitewash might be made from various combinations of lime paste and other ingredients. The following two formulas are satisfactory.

The casein, which can serve as the glue binder, should be soaked into two gallons of trouble until thoroughly softened, which should be approximately 2 hours. After dissolving the trisodium phosphate in 1 gallon of water it should be added on the casein, stirring the mixture before casein dissolves. This solution should be mixed with the lime paste and 3 gallons of water.

The salt and alum should be dis-solved in 4 gallons of trouble, after which the molasses may be added on the mixture. The resulting clear solution is then added on the lime paste, stirred vigorously, and thinned with water on the desired consistency. This whitewash features a yellow tinge when first applied, though the color disappears using some days leaving a white film.

Another satisfactory whitewash might be made by diluting a moderately heavy cold lime paste (about 33 lbs. of hydrated lime and 8 gallons of water) with 5 gallons of skim-milk.

The area included in a gallon of whitewash will depend on the type from the surface, but ordinarily a gallon will take care of about 225 sq. ft. on wood, about 180 sq. ft. on brick, leading to 270 sq. ft. on plaster. The formulas mentioned will make from 10 to 14 gallons of whitewash. If a smaller quantity is desired, how much each ingredient should be reduced proportionately.

STIPPLING

Whether you want the effects of stippling (tiny paint dots) like a decorative effect, or if you've got a wall containing an uneven surface and you are feeling you'll be able to hide the defect by stippling it, you could possibly do this result very simply.

For stippling you want a special brush; acquire one that is certainly flat, and contains short, stiff bristles.

The first step is usually to cover the top which has a coat of paint, making use of your regular paint brush, or spray, or roller. Then, while the top continues to be wet, take the dry stipple brush and energetically with short strokes drive the ends or the bristles to the wet paint. Be sure not to brush across. The result will likely be clusters of dots. Every short while wipe the brush which has a cloth, to maintain the bristle ends clean and dry.

STENCILING

You may want designs for the walls, or perhaps even on floors and ceilings, in certain from the rooms or hallway. You may buy or make your own stencils, which should be on heavy paper, stencil board, plastic, or metal. Avoid stencils created from lightweight paper that can get soaked when touched by wet paint. Your paint dealer will suggest the best paint for you to work with, mainly because it will be based a whole lot for the surface over which you want to place the stenciled designs. Generally a whopping paint is used, then it won't spread under the stencil while you're applying it.

The stencil should be held very firmly against the top with one hand, and also the stencil brush worked over it quickly with the other hand Antique Gold Paint For Walls. Or, for those who have an assistant, it really is best first person to maintain the stencil steady, whilst the other does the painting. In detaching the stencil, ensure you figure it out without smudging.

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