How To Paint Background Trees In Acrylic

How To Paint Background Trees In Acrylic

How To Paint Background Trees In Acrylic

How To Paint Background Trees In Acrylic -Interior painting requires as careful preparation of surfaces as does exterior painting. The advent of odorless paints now can help you paint any time of the year. Formerly, most interior painting in the house was done inside the fall or spring, in the event it was possible to go away the windows ready to accept ventilate the space. But open windows brought dust into the space to mar the finished painted surface.

A good interior paint job is usually 50% preparation and 50% painting. Do not rush in preparing the surfaces with your eagerness to get at the brush or roller. If you do not prepare the surfaces properly, you will be back with all the paint brush or roller in a few monthsHow To Paint Background Trees In Acrylic. In this section there is the necessary information for the putting on different types of paints on various interior wall, ceiling and floor materials.


New dry plaster in good condition, which is always to be through with a paint other than water paint, should be given a coat of primer-sealer and in a position to dry thoroughly before being inspected for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and color differences inside the case of tinted primers indicate choice . whole surface continues to be completely sealed. If not, an additional coat of primer-sealer should be applied. If only a couple of "suction spots" are apparent, an additional coat during these areas could possibly be sufficient.

A flat, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish could possibly be applied to the primed surface. For a flat finish, two coats of flat wall paint should keep to the priming coat. For a semi-gloss finish, one coat of flat wall paint and something coat of semi-gloss paint should be applied to the primed surface. For a high-gloss finish, one coat of semi-gloss paint and something coat of high-gloss enamel should be used over the priming coat.

Before applying water paints from the calcimine type to new plastered walls they should be sized, using the glue-water size or, if your plaster is dry, a thin varnish or primer-sealer.

Cold water paints from the casein type could possibly be applied either straight to a plastered surface, or the surface could possibly be first given a coat of primer-sealer to equalize uneven suction effects. The same is true of resin-emulsion paints, with all the recommendations from the manufacturer from the product being given preference in the case of doubt. Since resin-emulsion paints usually contain some oil inside the binder, they must ordinarily be reproduced just to plaster containing dried thoroughly.

Texture wall paints could also be used on plaster surfaces. The advantages of this sort of paint are that certain coat economically generates a textured decoration and relieves the monotony of smooth flat paint. It also covers cracks or patches inside the plaster more completely than ordinary wall paint. The disadvantages of texture wall paint are which they Collect dust and therefore are difficult to restore with a smooth finish. These materials are available as water-or oil-based paints, are thicker than ordinary wall paints, and could possibly be applied to wallboard and also plaster to produce textured effects like random, Spanish, mission, and multicolored.

Composition Wallboard

Composition wallboard usually presents no particular painting difficulties if your ordinary precautions are observed, like guaranteeing how the surface is dry and clear of grease and oil. The painting process of wallboard is equivalent to for plaster; it needs a priming and sealing coat as well as whatever finishes coats are desired, or could possibly be given one-coat flat or resin-emulsion type paint.


Water-thinned paint could possibly be applied to wallpaper that is well- bonded on the wall and will not contain dyes which may bleed in the paint. One thickness of wallpaper is preferable for paint application. Paints other than those from the water-thinned type can be applied to wallpaper by following the directions given for painting plaster. However, wallpaper coated with such a paint is difficult to remove without injury on the plaster.

Wood Walls and Trim

New interior walls and wood trim should be smoothed with sand-paper and dusted before painting or varnishing. To preserve the grain from the wood, the surface could possibly be rubbed with linseed oil, varnished or shellacked, and waxed. If an opaque finish is desired, semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint or the primer-sealer previously described for walls could possibly be used as being a priming coat on wood. One or two coats of semi-gloss paint should then be reproduced over the thoroughly dry prime coat, or if a full-gloss finish is desired, the past coat should be a high-gloss enamel.

Masonry Walls and Ceilings

Interior masonry walls and ceilings above grade may, normally, be painted in much the same manner as plaster surfaces. Here again, it is vital to permit adequate time for the masonry to dry before applying paint and, in addition, attention should be given on the preparation from the surface. When decorating a wall containing Portland cement (concrete, for instance), it is important to take precautions from the attack of alkali. For this purpose, alkali-resistant primers like rubber-base paints could possibly be used when oil paints will be to follow.

Cement-water paints are best designed for application to basement walls which are damp as being a result of leakage or condensation. To apply these paints, a similar procedure should be followed out of the box described in charge of painting exterior masonry walls.

Concrete Floors

Two general forms of paints for concrete floors are varnish and rubber-base paint. Each has its limitations along with the finish can not be patched with no patched area showing through. Floor and deck enamel from the varnish type gives good service on concrete floors above grade where there is not any moisture present.

Rubber-base paints, which dry with a hard semi-gloss finish, could possibly be used on concrete floors below grade, supplying the floor isn't continually damp from seepage and condensation.

Paint shouldn't be applied to a concrete basement floor before concrete has aged for about per year. The floor should be dry when painted, a good time for application being through the winter or springtime (assuming there is some heating apparatus inside the basement), in the event the humidity inside the basement is low. In general, three coats of paint are required on an unpainted floor, along with the first coat should be thin to secure good penetration. After the paint is dry, it should be protected having a coat of floor wax.

How To Paint Background Trees In Acrylic

In repainting concrete floors, the location where the existing paint continues to be waxed and is in good condition with the exception of some worn areas, the surface should be scrubbed with cloths saturated with turpentine or petroleum spirits and rubbed with steel wool while wet, to get rid of all wax before repainting. If this isn't done, the paint won't adhere and dry satisfactorily, if your old paint is badly worn, it should be removed by treating having a solution of 2 lbs. of caustic soda (household lye) to 1 gallon of trouble. This could possibly be mopped for the surface and in a position to remain for thirty minutes after which it the bottom could be washed with trouble and scraped having a wide steel scraper. Another method of application is always to spread a thin layer of sawdust, which continues to be soaked in caustic solution over the floor and invite it to stand overnight. The following morning, the bottom could be washed with trouble along with the paint scraped off How To Paint Background Trees In Acrylic. The surface should then be rinsed thoroughly with clean water.

If rubber-base paint continues to be used, the caustic soda treatment is probably not effective and it could possibly be essential to work with an organic solvent type of paint remover.

Caution: - When using caustic soda or lye, avoid splashing eyes, skin, and clothing.

Interior Metal

Interior metal, like heating grilles, radiators, and exposed water pipes, should be painted to prevent rust and make sure they are as inconspicuous as is possible. New metal should be cleaned of grease and dirt by washing with mineral spirits, and any rust should be removed by sanding, after which it a metallic primer should be applied. The finish coat could possibly be the flat wall paint or possibly a semi-gloss enamel.

If you aren't sure from the primer to utilize on metal, the paint dealer or manufacturer will provide you with these records, dependent for the type of metal being painted How To Paint Background Trees In Acrylic.
Usually on exposed air ducts of galvanized metal a primer coat of zinc dust-zinc oxide paint is utilized, before the finish coat is applied.
The paints could possibly be applied by brush or spray; the small spray attachment for vacuum cleaners is quite convenient, specifically for painting radiators.

Brass lamps and andirons could possibly be polished and kept bright by coating with metal lacquers. The lacquers, located in cans under time limits, could possibly be sprayed from the container. Old-fashioned or unattractive lamps could possibly be painted with ceiling or wall paint to harmonize with all the surrounding surfaces.

Special Surfaces


Whitewashes and lime paints has to be thin when applied. In fact, ideal results will be obtained if your application is really thin how the surface which it is applied may simply be seen through the film while it is wet. The coating will dry opaque, but two thin Coats will offer better results than one thick coat.

A large whitewash brush is right for applying the wash How To Paint Background Trees In Acrylic. One should not try to brush the coating, as in applying oil paint, however spread the whitewash on as evenly and quickly as is possible.

The principal ingredient in whitewash is lime paste. A satisfactory paste could be made with hydrated lime, but better answers are obtained through the use of quicklime paste that continues to be slaked with enough water to really make it moderately stiff. The lime paste should be saved in a loosely covered container for about several days. Eight gallons of stiff lime paste could be made by slaking 25 lbs. of quicklime in 10 gallons of water, or by soaking 50 lbs. of hydrated lime in 6 gallons of water. After soaking, the paste should be strained by having a fine screen to get rid of lumps or foreign matter.

Whitewash could be made from various combinations of lime paste along with other ingredients. The following two formulas are satisfactory.

The casein, which may serve as the glue binder, should be soaked by 50 percent gallons of trouble until thoroughly softened, which should be approximately 120 minutes. After dissolving the trisodium phosphate in 1 gallon of water it should be added on the casein, stirring a combination before casein dissolves. This solution should be mixed with all the lime paste and 3 gallons of water.

The salt and alum should be dis-solved in 4 gallons of trouble, after which it the molasses could possibly be added on the mixture. The resulting clear option would be then added on the lime paste, stirred vigorously, and thinned with water on the desired consistency. This whitewash features a yellow tinge when first applied, though the color disappears in a few days leaving a white film.

Another satisfactory whitewash could be made by diluting a moderately heavy cold lime paste (about 33 lbs. of hydrated lime and 8 gallons of water) with 5 gallons of skim-milk.

The area protected by a gallon of whitewash depends upon the type from the surface, but ordinarily a gallon will handle about 225 sq. ft. on wood, about 180 sq. ft. on brick, and about 270 sq. ft. on plaster. The formulas mentioned could make from 10 to 14 gallons of whitewash. If a smaller quantity is desired, how much each ingredient should be reduced proportionately.


Whether you want the consequence of stippling (tiny paint dots) as being a decorative effect, or if you do have a wall containing an uneven surface and you're feeling you can hide the defect by stippling it, you could possibly achieve this result very simply.

For stippling you will need a special brush; acquire one that is flat, and contains short, stiff bristles.

The initial step is always to cover the surface having a coat of paint, using your regular paint brush, or spray, or roller. Then, while the surface continues to be wet, take the dry stipple brush and energetically with short strokes drive the ends or the bristles in the wet paint. Be sure not to brush across. The result will be clusters of dots. Every few minutes wipe the brush having a cloth, to hold the bristle ends clean and dry.


You may wish designs for the walls, or maybe even on floors and ceilings, in some from the rooms or hallway. You may buy or make your own stencils, which should be on heavy paper, stencil board, plastic, or metal. Avoid stencils made from lightweight paper which will get soaked when touched by wet paint. Your paint dealer will suggest the most effective paint for you to utilize, since it depends a good deal for the surface over which you wish to position the stenciled designs. Generally a whopping paint is utilized, in order that it won't spread beneath the stencil when you are putting it on.

The stencil has to be held very firmly against the surface with one hand, along with the stencil brush worked over it quickly with all the other hand How To Paint Background Trees In Acrylic. Or, for those who have an assistant, it is best for one person to hold the stencil steady, while the other does the painting. In removing the stencil, ensure you understand it without smudging.

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