Kelly Moore Exterior Paint Color Schemes

Kelly Moore Exterior Paint Color Schemes

Kelly Moore Exterior Paint Color Schemes

Kelly Moore Exterior Paint Color Schemes -Interior painting requires as careful preparation of surfaces along with exterior painting. The advent of odorless paints now can help you paint whenever of the season. Formerly, most interior painting in the house ended inside the fall or spring, if it was possible to go out of the windows available to ventilate the room. But open windows brought dust into the room to mar the finished painted surface.

A good interior paint job is usually 50% preparation and 50% painting. Do not rush in preparing the surfaces with your eagerness to go to the brush or roller. If you do not prepare the surfaces properly, you will end up back with all the paint brush or roller in certain monthsKelly Moore Exterior Paint Color Schemes. In this there is the right information for the putting on different types of paints on various interior wall, ceiling and floor materials.


New dry plaster in good shape, which is usually to be through with a paint apart from water paint, needs to be given a coat of primer-sealer and permitted to dry thoroughly before being inspected for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and color differences inside the case of tinted primers indicate whether or not the whole surface has been completely sealed. If not, an extra coat of primer-sealer needs to be applied. If only several "suction spots" are apparent, an extra coat over these areas may be sufficient.

A flat, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish may be applied to the primed surface. For a flat finish, two coats of flat wall paint should continue with the priming coat. For a semi-gloss finish, one coat of flat wall paint then one coat of semi-gloss paint needs to be applied to the primed surface. For a high-gloss finish, one coat of semi-gloss paint then one coat of high-gloss enamel needs to be used over the priming coat.

Before applying water paints from the calcimine type to new plastered walls they needs to be sized, using sometimes a glue-water size or, if the plaster is dry, a thin varnish or primer-sealer.

Cold water paints from the casein type may be applied either straight away to a plastered surface, or even the surface may be first given a coat of primer-sealer to equalize uneven suction effects. The same is true of resin-emulsion paints, with all the recommendations from the manufacturer from the product being given preference in the event of doubt. Since resin-emulsion paints usually contain some oil inside the binder, they need to ordinarily be reproduced simply to plaster which includes dried thoroughly.

Texture wall paints could also be used on plaster surfaces. The advantages of this type of paint are that certain coat economically creates a textured decoration and relieves the monotony of smooth flat paint. It also covers cracks or patches inside the plaster more completely than ordinary wall paint. The disadvantages of texture wall paint are that they Collect dust and so are hard to restore to some smooth finish. These materials can be obtained as water-or oil-based paints, are thicker than ordinary wall paints, and may be applied to wallboard and also plaster to create textured effects such as random, Spanish, mission, and multicolored.

Composition Wallboard

Composition wallboard usually presents no particular painting difficulties if the ordinary precautions are observed, such as making certain the surface is dry and clear of grease and oil. The painting means of wallboard is equivalent to for plaster; it requires a priming and sealing coat followed by whatever finishes coats are desired, or may be given one-coat flat or resin-emulsion type paint.


Water-thinned paint may be applied to wallpaper that is certainly well- bonded to the wall and does not contain dyes which may bleed into the paint. One thickness of wallpaper is preferable for paint application. Paints apart from those from the water-thinned type can also be applied to wallpaper following the directions given for painting plaster. However, wallpaper coated with such a paint is hard to remove without injury to the plaster.

Wood Walls and Trim

New interior walls and wood trim needs to be smoothed with sand-paper and dusted before painting or varnishing. To preserve the grain from the wood, the surface may be rubbed with linseed oil, varnished or shellacked, and waxed. If an opaque finish is desired, semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint or even the primer-sealer previously described for walls may be used like a priming coat on wood. One or two coats of semi-gloss paint should then be reproduced over the thoroughly dry prime coat, or if a full-gloss finish is desired, the past coat needs to be a high-gloss enamel.

Masonry Walls and Ceilings

Interior masonry walls and ceilings above grade may, in general, be painted in very similar manner as plaster surfaces. Here again, it is crucial to permit adequate time for your masonry to dry before applying paint and, moreover, attention needs to be given to the preparation from the surface. When decorating a wall containing Portland cement (concrete, for example), it is important to take precautions from the attack of alkali. For this purpose, alkali-resistant primers such as rubber-base paints may be used when oil paints will follow.

Cement-water paints would be best suited to application to basement walls which can be damp like a result of leakage or condensation. To apply these paints, the identical procedure needs to be followed as they are described for painting exterior masonry walls.

Concrete Floors

Two general forms of paints for concrete floors are varnish and rubber-base paint. Each has its limitations and also the finish can't be patched devoid of the patched area showing through. Floor and deck enamel from the varnish type gives good service on concrete floors above grade its keep isn't moisture present.

Rubber-base paints, which dry to some hard semi-gloss finish, may be used on concrete floors below grade, providing the floor is just not continually damp from seepage and condensation.

Paint should not be applied to a concrete basement floor before the concrete has aged for about per year. The floor needs to be dry when painted, local plumber for application being during the winter or planting season (assuming there is certainly some heating apparatus inside the basement), in the event the humidity inside the basement is low. In general, three coats of paint are needed with an unpainted floor, and also the first coat needs to be thin to secure good penetration. After the paint is dry, it needs to be protected using a coat of floor wax.

Kelly Moore Exterior Paint Color Schemes

In repainting concrete floors, in which the existing paint has been waxed which is in good shape aside from some worn areas, the surface needs to be scrubbed with cloths saturated with turpentine or petroleum spirits and rubbed with steel wool while wet, to remove all wax before repainting. If this is just not done, the paint will not adhere and dry satisfactorily, if the old paint is badly worn, it needs to be removed by treating using a solution of 2 lbs. of caustic soda (household lye) to at least one gallon of trouble. This may be mopped for the surface and permitted to remain for half an hour and the bottom may be washed with trouble and scraped using a wide steel scraper. Another method of application is usually to spread a thin layer of sawdust, which has been soaked in caustic solution over the floor and permit it to face overnight. The following morning, the bottom may be washed with trouble and also the paint scraped off Kelly Moore Exterior Paint Color Schemes. The surface should then be rinsed thoroughly with clean water.

If rubber-base paint has been used, the caustic soda treatment may not be effective and it may be required to make use of an organic solvent type of paint remover.

Caution: - When using caustic soda or lye, avoid splashing eyes, skin, and clothing.

Interior Metal

Interior metal, such as heating grilles, radiators, and exposed water pipes, needs to be painted to stop rust also to make sure they are as inconspicuous as you can. New metal needs to be cleaned of grease and dirt by washing with mineral spirits, and then any rust needs to be removed by sanding, and a metal primer needs to be applied. The finish coat may be sometimes a flat wall paint or perhaps a semi-gloss enamel.

If you are not sure from the primer to make use of on metal, the paint dealer or manufacturer gives you this information, dependent for the type of metal to be painted Kelly Moore Exterior Paint Color Schemes.
Usually on exposed air ducts of galvanized metal a primer coat of zinc dust-zinc oxide paint can be used, prior to the finish coat is applied.
The paints may be applied by brush or spray; the tiny spray attachment for vacuum cleaners is extremely convenient, specifically for painting radiators.

Brass lighting fixtures and andirons may be polished and kept bright by coating with metal lacquers. The lacquers, located in cans under pressure, may be sprayed directly from the container. Old-fashioned or unattractive lighting fixtures may be painted with ceiling or wall paint to harmonize with all the surrounding surfaces.

Special Surfaces


Whitewashes and lime paints should be thin when applied. In fact, best results will probably be obtained if the application can be so thin the surface which it can be applied may easily be seen over the film while it can be wet. The coating will dry opaque, but two thin Coats can give better results than one thick coat.

A large whitewash brush is perfect for applying the wash Kelly Moore Exterior Paint Color Schemes. One should not try to brush the coating, such as applying oil paint, however spread the whitewash on as evenly and quickly as you can.

The principal ingredient in whitewash is lime paste. A satisfactory paste may be made with hydrated lime, but better results are obtained by making use of quicklime paste that has been slaked with sufficient water making it moderately stiff. The lime paste needs to be kept in a loosely covered container for about a couple of days. Eight gallons of stiff lime paste may be made by slaking 25 lbs. of quicklime in 10 gallons of water, or by soaking 50 lbs. of hydrated lime in 6 gallons of water. After soaking, the paste needs to be strained through a fine screen to remove lumps or foreign matter.

Whitewash may be made from various combinations of lime paste as well as other ingredients. The following two formulas are satisfactory.

The casein, which can serve as the glue binder, needs to be soaked by 50 % gallons of trouble until thoroughly softened, which needs to be approximately 2 hours. After dissolving the trisodium phosphate in 1 gallon of water it needs to be added to the casein, stirring the mix before the casein dissolves. This solution needs to be mixed with all the lime paste and 3 gallons of water.

The salt and alum needs to be dis-solved in 4 gallons of trouble, and the molasses may be added to the mixture. The resulting clear option would be then added to the lime paste, stirred vigorously, and thinned with water to the desired consistency. This whitewash carries a yellow tinge when first applied, nevertheless the color disappears in certain days leaving a white film.

Another satisfactory whitewash may be made by diluting a moderately heavy cold lime paste (about 33 lbs. of hydrated lime and 8 gallons of water) with 5 gallons of skim-milk.

The area covered by a gallon of whitewash will depend on the character from the surface, but ordinarily a gallon will handle about 225 sq. ft. on wood, about 180 sq. ft. on brick, contributing to 270 sq. ft. on plaster. The formulas mentioned will make from 10 to 14 gallons of whitewash. If a smaller quantity is desired, how much each ingredient needs to be reduced proportionately.


Whether you would like the consequence of stippling (tiny paint dots) like a decorative effect, or if you've got a wall which includes an uneven surface and you're feeling it is possible to hide the defect by stippling it, you could possibly do this result very simply.

For stippling you want a special brush; get one that is certainly flat, and contains short, stiff bristles.

The starting point is usually to cover the surface using a coat of paint, using your regular paint brush, or spray, or roller. Then, while the surface remains to be wet, make dry stipple brush and energetically with short strokes drive the ends or even the bristles into the wet paint. Be sure not to brush across. The result will probably be clusters of dots. Every matter of minutes wipe the brush using a cloth, to hold the bristle ends clean and dry.


You might want designs for the walls, or simply even on floors and ceilings, in a few from the rooms or hallway. You may buy or help make your own stencils, which needs to be on heavy paper, stencil board, plastic, or metal. Avoid stencils created from lightweight paper that will get soaked when touched by wet paint. Your paint dealer will suggest the best paint for you to make use of, since it depends a whole lot for the surface over which you wish to squeeze stenciled designs. Generally huge paint can be used, then it will not spread under the stencil while you're putting it on.

The stencil should be held very firmly against the surface with one hand, and also the stencil brush worked over it quickly with all the other hand Kelly Moore Exterior Paint Color Schemes. Or, when you have an assistant, it can be best for just one person to hold the stencil steady, whilst the other does the painting. In removing the stencil, make sure you get it without smudging.


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