Painting Over Polyurethane Cabinets

Painting Over Polyurethane Cabinets

Painting Over Polyurethane Cabinets -Interior painting requires as careful preparation of surfaces as does exterior painting. The advent of odorless paints now can help you paint any time of year. Formerly, most interior painting in the house was done inside fall or spring, if this was possible to go out of the windows offered to ventilate the room. But open windows brought dust into the room to mar the finished painted surface.

A good interior paint job is usually 50% preparation and 50% painting. Do not rush in preparing the surfaces in your eagerness to find the brush or roller. If you do not prepare the surfaces properly, you may be back using the paint brush or roller in certain monthsPainting Over Polyurethane Cabinets. In this there is an right information for the application of various kinds of paints on various interior wall, ceiling and floor materials.

Plaster

New dry plaster in excellent, which is always to be finished a paint aside from water paint, should be given a coat of primer-sealer and able to dry thoroughly before being inspected for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and color differences inside case of tinted primers indicate set up whole surface has been completely sealed. If not, an extra coat of primer-sealer should be applied. If only several "suction spots" are apparent, an extra coat over these areas might be sufficient.

A flat, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish might be put on the primed surface. For a flat finish, two coats of flat wall paint should continue with the priming coat. For a semi-gloss finish, one coat of flat wall paint and something coat of semi-gloss paint should be put on the primed surface. For a high-gloss finish, one coat of semi-gloss paint and something coat of high-gloss enamel should be used within the priming coat.

Before applying water paints with the calcimine type to new plastered walls they should be sized, using the glue-water size or, in the event the plaster is dry, a thin varnish or primer-sealer.

Cold water paints with the casein type might be applied either straight to a plastered surface, or perhaps the surface might be first given a coat of primer-sealer to equalize uneven suction effects. The same is true of resin-emulsion paints, using the recommendations with the manufacturer with the product being given preference in the case of doubt. Since resin-emulsion paints usually contain some oil inside binder, they should ordinarily be used and then plaster that has dried thoroughly.

Texture wall paints may also be used on plaster surfaces. The advantages of this kind of paint are that one coat economically generates a textured decoration and relieves the monotony of smooth flat paint. It also covers cracks or patches inside plaster more completely than ordinary wall paint. The disadvantages of texture wall paint are which they Collect dust and are challenging to restore to your smooth finish. These materials are available as water-or oil-based paints, are thicker than ordinary wall paints, and might be put on wallboard as well as plaster to create textured effects like random, Spanish, mission, and multicolored.

Composition Wallboard

Composition wallboard usually presents no particular painting difficulties in the event the ordinary precautions are observed, like making certain that the surface is dry and clear of grease and oil. The painting process of wallboard is the same as for plaster; it requires a priming and sealing coat then whatever finishes coats are desired, or might be given one-coat flat or resin-emulsion type paint.

Wallpaper

Water-thinned paint might be put on wallpaper which is well- bonded on the wall and doesn't contain dyes which can bleed in the paint. One thickness of wallpaper is preferable for paint application. Paints aside from those with the water-thinned type may also be put on wallpaper by using the directions given for painting plaster. However, wallpaper coated by using these a paint is challenging to remove without injury on the plaster.

Wood Walls and Trim

New interior walls and wood trim should be smoothed with sand-paper and dusted before painting or varnishing. To preserve the grain with the wood, the surface might be rubbed with linseed oil, varnished or shellacked, and waxed. If an opaque finish is desired, semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint or perhaps the primer-sealer previously described for walls might be used being a priming coat on wood. One or two coats of semi-gloss paint should then be used within the thoroughly dry prime coat, or if a full-gloss finish is desired, the last coat should be a high-gloss enamel.

Masonry Walls and Ceilings

Interior masonry walls and ceilings above grade may, generally, be painted in quite similar manner as plaster surfaces. Here again, it is necessary allowing adequate time for the masonry to dry before applying paint and, furthermore, attention should be given on the preparation with the surface. When decorating a wall containing Portland cement (concrete, for instance), it is very important take precautions from the attack of alkali. For this purpose, alkali-resistant primers like rubber-base paints might be used when oil paints will be to follow.

Cement-water paints are best fitted to application to basement walls which can be damp being a result of leakage or condensation. To apply these paints, exactly the same procedure should be followed as is also described in charge of painting exterior masonry walls.

Concrete Floors

Two general forms of paints for concrete floors are varnish and rubber-base paint. Each has its limitations and also the finish can't be patched with no patched area showing through. Floor and deck enamel with the varnish type gives good service on concrete floors above grade its keep isn't moisture present.

Rubber-base paints, which dry to your hard semi-gloss finish, might be used on concrete floors below grade, supplying the floor isn't continually damp from seepage and condensation.

Paint shouldn't be put on a concrete basement floor until the concrete has aged not less than 12 months. The floor should be dry when painted, a good time for application being in the winter or planting season (assuming there is certainly some heating apparatus inside basement), when the humidity inside basement is low. In general, three coats of paint are required while on an unpainted floor, and also the first coat should be thin to secure good penetration. After the paint is dry, it should be protected having a coat of floor wax.

Painting Over Polyurethane Cabinets

In repainting concrete floors, in which the existing paint has been waxed and is also in excellent aside from some worn areas, the surface should be scrubbed with cloths saturated with turpentine or petroleum spirits and rubbed with steel wool while wet, to take out all wax before repainting. If this isn't done, the paint is not going to adhere and dry satisfactorily, in the event the old paint is badly worn, it should be removed by treating having a solution of 2 lbs. of caustic soda (household lye) to 1 gallon of hot water. This might be mopped for the surface and able to remain for 30 minutes and the ground might be washed with hot water and scraped having a wide steel scraper. Another method of application is always to spread a thin layer of sawdust, which has been soaked in caustic solution within the floor and allow it to face overnight. The following morning, the ground might be washed with hot water and also the paint scraped off Painting Over Polyurethane Cabinets. The surface should then be rinsed thoroughly with clean water.

If rubber-base paint has been used, the caustic soda treatment will not be effective and yes it might be required to make use of an organic solvent form of paint remover.

Caution: - When using caustic soda or lye, avoid splashing eyes, skin, and clothing.

Interior Metal

Interior metal, like heating grilles, radiators, and exposed water pipes, should be painted to avoid rust and also to get them to as inconspicuous as you possibly can. New metal should be cleaned of grease and dirt by washing with mineral spirits, as well as any rust should be removed by sanding, and a metallic primer should be applied. The finish coat might be the flat wall paint or possibly a semi-gloss enamel.

If you are not sure with the primer to use on metal, the paint dealer or manufacturer provides you with this info, dependent for the form of metal being painted Painting Over Polyurethane Cabinets.
Usually on exposed air ducts of galvanized metal a primer coat of zinc dust-zinc oxide paint can be used, before the finish coat is applied.
The paints might be applied by brush or spray; the small spray attachment for hoovers is extremely convenient, especially for painting radiators.

Brass lighting fixtures and andirons might be polished and kept bright by coating with metal lacquers. The lacquers, located in cans pressurized, might be sprayed from the container. Old-fashioned or unattractive lighting fixtures might be painted with ceiling or wall paint to harmonize using the surrounding surfaces.

Special Surfaces

WHITEWASH

Whitewashes and lime paints must be thin when applied. In fact, greatest results will likely be obtained in the event the application is so thin that the surface that it's applied may be seen through the film while it's wet. The coating will dry opaque, but two thin Coats can give better results than one thick coat.

A large whitewash brush is best for applying the wash Painting Over Polyurethane Cabinets. One should not try to brush the coating, like applying oil paint, but spread the whitewash on as evenly and quickly as you possibly can.

The principal ingredient in whitewash is lime paste. A satisfactory paste might be made with hydrated lime, but better email address particulars are obtained by making use of quicklime paste that has been slaked with enough water to restore moderately stiff. The lime paste should be held in a loosely covered container not less than several days. Eight gallons of stiff lime paste might be made by slaking 25 lbs. of quicklime in 10 gallons of water, or by soaking 50 lbs. of hydrated lime in 6 gallons of water. After soaking, the paste should be strained via a fine screen to take out lumps or foreign matter.

Whitewash might be made from various combinations of lime paste as well as other ingredients. The following two formulas are satisfactory.

The casein, which serves as the glue binder, should be soaked in 2 gallons of hot water until thoroughly softened, which should be approximately 120 minutes. After dissolving the trisodium phosphate in 1 gallon of water it should be added on the casein, stirring the mixture until the casein dissolves. This solution should be mixed using the lime paste and 3 gallons of water.

The salt and alum should be dis-solved in 4 gallons of hot water, and the molasses might be added on the mixture. The resulting clear option is then added on the lime paste, stirred vigorously, and thinned with water on the desired consistency. This whitewash has a yellow tinge when first applied, but the color disappears in certain days leaving a white film.

Another satisfactory whitewash might be made by diluting a moderately heavy cold lime paste (about 33 lbs. of hydrated lime and 8 gallons of water) with 5 gallons of skim-milk.

The area included in a gallon of whitewash depends upon the nature with the surface, but ordinarily a gallon covers about 225 sq. ft. on wood, about 180 sq. ft. on brick, contributing to 270 sq. ft. on plaster. The formulas mentioned can make from 10 to 14 gallons of whitewash. If a smaller quantity is desired, how much each ingredient should be reduced proportionately.

STIPPLING

Whether you would like the effects of stippling (tiny paint dots) being a decorative effect, or if you do have a wall that has an uneven surface and you are feeling you'll be able to hide the defect by stippling it, you could possibly make this happen result very simply.

For stippling you'll need a special brush; get one which is flat, and possesses short, stiff bristles.

The initial step is always to cover the surface having a coat of paint, with your regular paint brush, or spray, or roller. Then, while the surface continues to be wet, consider the dry stipple brush and energetically with short strokes drive the ends or perhaps the bristles in the wet paint. Be sure not to brush across. The result will likely be clusters of dots. Every matter of minutes wipe the brush having a cloth, to maintain the bristle ends clean and dry.

STENCILING

You might prefer designs for the walls, or perhaps even on floors and ceilings, in some with the rooms or hallway. You may buy or you could make your own stencils, which should be on heavy paper, stencil board, plastic, or metal. Avoid stencils made of lightweight paper that may get soaked when touched by wet paint. Your paint dealer will suggest the best paint for you to use, mainly because it will be based on a great deal for the surface over which you wish to place the stenciled designs. Generally much paint can be used, so that it is not going to spread within the stencil while you are using it.

The stencil must be held very firmly against the surface with one hand, and also the stencil brush worked over it quickly using the other hand Painting Over Polyurethane Cabinets. Or, in case you have an assistant, it's best for just one person to maintain the stencil steady, whilst the other does the painting. In treatment of stencil, be sure you get it without smudging.

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