What Kind Of Paint To Use On Cabinets
What Kind Of Paint To Use On Cabinets -Interior painting requires as careful preparation of surfaces along with exterior painting. The advent of odorless paints now makes it possible to paint whenever of the season. Formerly, most interior painting in the house was over in the fall or spring, if this was possible to depart the windows open to ventilate the space. But open windows brought dust into the space to mar the finished painted surface.
A good interior paint job is often 50% preparation and 50% painting. Do not rush in preparing the surfaces inside your eagerness to get at the brush or roller. If you do not prepare the surfaces properly, you will end up back while using paint brush or roller in some monthsWhat Kind Of Paint To Use On Cabinets. In it there is the information you need on the use of various kinds of paints on various interior wall, ceiling and floor materials.
New dry plaster in good condition, which would be to be finished with a paint besides water paint, must be given a coat of primer-sealer and allowed to dry thoroughly before being inspected for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and color differences in the case of tinted primers indicate whether or not the whole surface has become completely sealed. If not, an extra coat of primer-sealer must be applied. If only several "suction spots" are apparent, an extra coat during these areas could possibly be sufficient.
A flat, semi-gloss, or high-gloss finish could possibly be placed on the primed surface. For a flat finish, two coats of flat wall paint should keep to the priming coat. For a semi-gloss finish, one coat of flat wall paint the other coat of semi-gloss paint must be placed on the primed surface. For a high-gloss finish, one coat of semi-gloss paint the other coat of high-gloss enamel must be used within the priming coat.
Before applying water paints of the calcimine type to new plastered walls they must be sized, using the glue-water size or, when the plaster is dry, a thin varnish or primer-sealer.
Cold water paints of the casein type could possibly be applied either right to a plastered surface, or perhaps the surface could possibly be first given a coat of primer-sealer to equalize uneven suction effects. The same is true of resin-emulsion paints, while using recommendations of the manufacturer of the product being given preference in case there is doubt. Since resin-emulsion paints usually contain some oil in the binder, they need to ordinarily be reproduced only to plaster that has dried thoroughly.
Texture wall paints may also be used on plaster surfaces. The advantages of this type of paint are that particular coat economically produces a textured decoration and relieves the monotony of smooth flat paint. It also covers cracks or patches in the plaster more completely than ordinary wall paint. The disadvantages of texture wall paint are that they can Collect dust and therefore are tough to restore to your smooth finish. These materials can be purchased as water-or oil-based paints, are thicker than ordinary wall paints, and could possibly be placed on wallboard along with plaster to generate textured effects including random, Spanish, mission, and multicolored.
Composition wallboard usually presents no particular painting difficulties when the ordinary precautions are observed, including ensuring the surface is dry and free from grease and oil. The painting procedure for wallboard matches for plaster; it takes a priming and sealing coat followed by whatever finishes coats are desired, or could possibly be given one-coat flat or resin-emulsion type paint.
Water-thinned paint could possibly be placed on wallpaper that is well- bonded on the wall and doesn't contain dyes that might bleed into the paint. One thickness of wallpaper is preferable for paint application. Paints besides those of the water-thinned type may also be placed on wallpaper following the directions given for painting plaster. However, wallpaper coated by using these a paint is tough to remove without injury on the plaster.
Wood Walls and Trim
New interior walls and wood trim must be smoothed with sand-paper and dusted before painting or varnishing. To preserve the grain of the wood, the counter could possibly be rubbed with linseed oil, varnished or shellacked, and waxed. If an opaque finish is desired, semi-gloss paint thinned with 1 pint of turpen-tine per gallon of paint or perhaps the primer-sealer previously described for walls could possibly be used as a priming coat on wood. One or two coats of semi-gloss paint should then be reproduced within the thoroughly dry prime coat, or if a full-gloss finish is desired, the past coat must be a high-gloss enamel.
Masonry Walls and Ceilings
Interior masonry walls and ceilings above grade may, normally, be painted in very similar manner as plaster surfaces. Here again, it is necessary to allow for adequate time for that masonry to dry before applying paint and, additionally, attention must be given on the preparation of the surface. When decorating a wall containing Portland cement (concrete, for example), it is very important take precautions from the attack of alkali. For this purpose, alkali-resistant primers including rubber-base paints could possibly be used when oil paints are going to follow.
Cement-water paints might be best fitted to application to basement walls that are damp as a result of leakage or condensation. To apply these paints, the same procedure must be followed as is also described here for painting exterior masonry walls.
Two general forms of paints for concrete floors are varnish and rubber-base paint. Each has its limitations and also the finish can not be patched without the patched area showing through. Floor and deck enamel of the varnish type gives good service on concrete floors above grade its keep isn't moisture present.
Rubber-base paints, which dry to your hard semi-gloss finish, could possibly be used on concrete floors below grade, offering the floor just isn't continually damp from seepage and condensation.
Paint mustn't be placed on a concrete basement floor before the concrete has aged for at least a year. The floor must be dry when painted, the optimum time for application being in the winter or originate (assuming there exists some heating apparatus in the basement), if the humidity in the basement is low. In general, three coats of paint are needed while on an unpainted floor, and also the first coat must be thin to secure good penetration. After the paint is dry, it must be protected using a coat of floor wax.
What Kind Of Paint To Use On Cabinets
In repainting concrete floors, where the existing paint has become waxed which is in good condition apart from some worn areas, the counter must be scrubbed with cloths saturated with turpentine or petroleum spirits and rubbed with steel wool while wet, to eliminate all wax before repainting. If this just isn't done, the paint will not likely adhere and dry satisfactorily, when the old paint is badly worn, it must be removed by treating using a solution of 2 lbs. of caustic soda (household lye) to at least one gallon of hot water. This could possibly be mopped on the surface and allowed to remain for a half-hour after which the ground can be washed with hot water and scraped using a wide steel scraper. Another method of application would be to spread a thin layer of sawdust, which has become soaked in caustic solution within the floor and permit it to face overnight. The following morning, the ground can be washed with hot water and also the paint scraped off What Kind Of Paint To Use On Cabinets. The surface should then be rinsed thoroughly with clean water.
If rubber-base paint has become used, the caustic soda treatment may not be effective also it could possibly be required to readily organic solvent kind of paint remover.
Caution: - When using caustic soda or lye, avoid splashing eyes, skin, and clothing.
Interior metal, including heating grilles, radiators, and exposed water pipes, must be painted to avoid rust and cause them to become as inconspicuous as you possibly can. New metal must be cleaned of grease and dirt by washing with mineral spirits, as well as any rust must be removed by sanding, after which metallic primer must be applied. The finish coat could possibly be the flat wall paint or even a semi-gloss enamel.
If about to catch sure of the primer to use on metal, the paint dealer or manufacturer provides you with this info, dependent on the kind of metal to get painted What Kind Of Paint To Use On Cabinets.
Usually on exposed air ducts of galvanized metal a primer coat of zinc dust-zinc oxide paint can be used, prior to the finish coat is applied.
The paints could possibly be applied by brush or spray; small spray attachment for hoovers is quite convenient, particularly for painting radiators.
Brass light fittings and andirons could possibly be polished and kept bright by coating with metal lacquers. The lacquers, located in cans under pressure, could possibly be sprayed directly from the container. Old-fashioned or unattractive light fittings could possibly be painted with ceiling or wall paint to harmonize while using surrounding surfaces.
Whitewashes and lime paints has to be thin when applied. In fact, greatest results will be obtained when the application is really thin the surface that it's applied may be seen over the film while it's wet. The coating will dry opaque, but two thin Coats can give better results than one thick coat.
A large whitewash brush is perfect for applying the wash What Kind Of Paint To Use On Cabinets. One should not try and brush the coating, as with applying oil paint, but spread the whitewash on as evenly and quickly as you possibly can.
The principal ingredient in whitewash is lime paste. A satisfactory paste can be made with hydrated lime, but better email address particulars are obtained by using quicklime paste that has become slaked with plenty water to restore moderately stiff. The lime paste must be saved in a loosely covered container for at least several days. Eight gallons of stiff lime paste can be made by slaking 25 lbs. of quicklime in 10 gallons of water, or by soaking 50 lbs. of hydrated lime in 6 gallons of water. After soaking, the paste must be strained through a fine screen to eliminate lumps or foreign matter.
Whitewash can be made from various combinations of lime paste and also other ingredients. The following two formulas are satisfactory.
The casein, which serves as the glue binder, must be soaked into two gallons of hot water until thoroughly softened, which must be approximately a couple of hours. After dissolving the trisodium phosphate in 1 gallon of water it must be added on the casein, stirring the amalgamation before the casein dissolves. This solution must be mixed while using lime paste and 3 gallons of water.
The salt and alum must be dis-solved in 4 gallons of hot water, after which the molasses could possibly be added on the mixture. The resulting clear solution is then added on the lime paste, stirred vigorously, and thinned with water on the desired consistency. This whitewash has a yellow tinge when first applied, nevertheless the color disappears in some days leaving a white film.
Another satisfactory whitewash can be made by diluting a moderately heavy cold lime paste (about 33 lbs. of hydrated lime and 8 gallons of water) with 5 gallons of skim-milk.
The area covered by a gallon of whitewash will depend on the nature of the surface, but ordinarily a gallon will take care of about 225 sq. ft. on wood, about 180 sq. ft. on brick, leading to 270 sq. ft. on plaster. The formulas mentioned will make from 10 to 14 gallons of whitewash. If a smaller quantity is desired, the volume of each ingredient must be reduced proportionately.
Whether you desire the effects of stippling (tiny paint dots) as a decorative effect, or if you have a wall that has an uneven surface and you are feeling you can hide the defect by stippling it, you may accomplish this result very simply.
For stippling you want a special brush; obtain one that is flat, and it has short, stiff bristles.
The 1st step would be to cover the counter using a coat of paint, utilizing your regular paint brush, or spray, or roller. Then, while the counter remains to be wet, make dry stipple brush and energetically with short strokes drive the ends or perhaps the bristles into the wet paint. Be sure not to brush across. The result will be clusters of dots. Every short while wipe the brush using a cloth, to keep the bristle ends clean and dry.
You might prefer designs on the walls, or possibly even on floors and ceilings, in certain of the rooms or hallway. You may buy or you could make your own stencils, which must be on heavy paper, stencil board, plastic, or metal. Avoid stencils made of lightweight paper that will get soaked when touched by wet paint. Your paint dealer will suggest the top paint for you to use, since it will depend a whole lot on the surface over which you need to put the stenciled designs. Generally a heavy paint can be used, in order that it will not likely spread underneath the stencil while you're applying it.
The stencil has to be held very firmly against the counter with one hand, and also the stencil brush worked over it quickly while using other hand What Kind Of Paint To Use On Cabinets. Or, when you have an assistant, it's best for just one person to keep the stencil steady, whilst the other does the painting. In taking out the stencil, be sure to pick it up without smudging.